My Sagada Experience

Sagada - Awesome Nature. Ancient Culture. Heavenly Place. Lovely people.

I first heard of Sagada and its regal beauty when it was featured in iWitness – a documentary program aired in GMA Channel 7 hosted by Howie Severino. I was really captured by its panoramic view down the valley, magnificent and dramatic rock formations, rich culture and its people. From then on, it has always been a dream for me to visit the place. Sagada topped the list of my dream travel destinations in the Philippines and just recently, two weeks ago, I can say it with conviction that it is indeed a paradise on earth. With my backpack on, together with my Ati-atihan Badminton Club family, we decided to leave our comfort zone and tried to discover what lies beneath the mystifying beauty of Sagada.

We left Kalibo International airport last 13th of May 2011 and decided to wait for some of our friends at the SM Mall of Asia. We proceeded at St. Luke’s Hospital in Quezon City - our meeting place, and boarded the bus at around 8:30 in the evening. All 16 of us were really excited for the long road trip to our final destination. We left Manila at exactly 8:58 PM and have ourselves entertained with sceneries along the way. Others managed to sleep while I settled satisfying my hungry stomach munching KFC Bacon and Cheese Twister and amusing myself with good Old Bob's music. 

We had several pit stops and took the chance to empty our bladders. Comfort rooms were flooded with people from the bus trying to unload their excess baggage. You just have to prepare a five-peso coin to be able to use it or else, you’d be peeing elsewhere. And because of the very long journey and butt-aching ride, we felt hungry from time to time so we need to refill our empty stomach and devour carbo-loaded food just enough to give us energy for the rest of the trip. Our last stop-over was the Municipality of Bontoc - Maxi’s hometown, he’s the one in charged booking our bus tickets and guest house reservation, offered to be our local guide slash security officer. We had a thirty-minute break while the bus waits for other passengers headed for Sagada. We grabbed the opportunity to visit Maxi’s house just across the bus stop and found Mama Lourdes waiting for us with native delicacies prepared on the table.

(Taken on a narrow trail going to Maxi's place at Bontoc, Mountain Province)

Along the road, our eyes feasted on the luscious green rice fields of the famous rice terraces. Pine trees were scattered all over the place which stood proudly, its leaves gently swaying, inviting and telling us that our trip will be soon be rewarded for we are just 15 minutes away from the place we’ve always dreamed of. We were all excited and I can hardly breathe.

We arrived in Sagada at 11:48 in the morning of May 14 and it took us exactly 13 hours and 38 minutes. Whew, it was indeed a long trip!

We freshened ourselves when we arrived at our guest house – Alfredo’s Inn and Restaurant, situated across the municipal town hall and public market. We were welcomed with warm greetings from the guesthouse staff including the owner, Odale who happens to be Maxi’s friend and the granddaughter of a former Congressman in the province. The guesthouse was named after the latter and has been operating since time immemorial. The sign that captivated me at the entrance of the doorstep of the guesthouse was “Umali Kayo” which means “Tuloy Po Kayo” (Come in!)

Alredo's Inn - This is where we stayed at Php250 per head. We occupied the  entire 3rd floor.

After settling in our respective rooms, we decided to divide responsibilities in preparing for our lunch. Jo, the treasurer of the group collected 300 pesos each for our food allowance for the whole duration of our two-day stay. I was the one in-charge of the marketing while I kept the companies of Maxi, Abs, Athan, Santa and Japs. We were lucky that we arrived in Sagada on a Saturday morning because it was their market day. Our eyes were bleeding with abundant fresh vegetables displayed along the street that cost thrice as low as what were sold in supermarkets around Aklan. 

Saturday Morning - Market Day in Sagada

Farmers took pride in trying to convince us to buy their harvested products. We can’t even choose what to buy for there are many varieties to choose from. Finally, we decided to buy some broccolis, cauliflowers, lots of carrots, cabbages and other things needed for chop suey, We bought two kilos of pork for adobo and a kilo of fish freshly delivered from Dagupan. Our baskets were filled with fruits and vegetables which gave us a hard time carrying it. Mads Diday – whom was considered “Mother Earth of the group” prepared a sumptuous lunch for all of us which we devoured like hungry wolves. Hehe

We rested for awhile and prepared to explore Sagada in the afternoon. We registered at the Municipal Town Hall which is a pre-requisite for all tourists coming there. One cannot trek or explore Sagada without experienced and trained guides so as not to meet accidents along the way. This also means promoting tourism and will help the local guides earn a living. Jackson, a member of Sagada Environmental Guides Association (SEGA) was recommended to us by Maxi’s cousin - Leswid (a SEGA guide also who failed to join us because of his work that time) helped us through the day by touring us around. We paid Php20 each for environmental fee.

Fact: Long before, there used to be only one Guides Association but because of individual differences and opposite point of views, they split into two. The original guides association (SEGA) is located at the Municipal Town Hall while the other group, the Saggada Genuine Guides Association (SaGGas) is situated down the road near the Yoghurt House. Both groups have trained and experienced guides so it doesn’t really matter which group you chose. They share the same purpose and that is to guide and keep their visitors free from harm or accidents while staying in Sagada.

As we head off to Echo Valley, we can’t help but get excited. We passed though St. Mary the Virgin Church and St. Mary’s Cemetery. With my boisterous laugh and over-excitement, I shouted so loud to test whether the place  is perfect for propagating echoes since it was named Echo Valley but Jackson, the guide whom I fondly calls “Jackie”, ssssshd me and reminded to tone down my voice so as not to disturb the spirits around. I told myself that I won’t be having a hard time trekking or climbing or hiking the trails since I was trained to do that in my career as a scout leader. The only thing that fears me most is how to be able to shut my mouth when I get too excited about something. Hehe I just can’t help it. (My best pal Abs would often tell me that I have swallowed a microphone!) I think the rest would agree to it. 

Woooohooooo!!!!

The Trek to Echo Valley

The trails in Echo Valley were easy but for “Nang Toto – the “Big Mama” of the group who happens to be a really huge woman in her forty’s, find it so difficult. She fell several times along the slippery trails and has a total number of five times sliding and rolling with her shoulder bag on. Her brother “Onoy” – Mads’ hubby helped her all throughout the trek by carrying her shoulder bag and herself, too. Hehe We took a few hours of wandering, exploring and appreciating Sagada’s picturesque sceneries at the valley. We were fascinated by the Hanging Coffins – a burial practice long time ago where people hang and stack coffins along the cliffs. I just can’t believe that a few years ago, I was watching these scenes on TV and now, just a few meters away from it, there I stood in bewilderment that I was actually there, witnessing a breathtaking view and enthralling a very rich culture which still exists in our country. It’s like living in the present moment while surrounded with scenes from the past. I just can’t describe my feelings. 

That's me! Praying that the spirits won't be disturbed! hehehe

According to the guide, there are three cave openings there but we chose to walk through the tunnel of the underground river. It didn’t scare me at first for I have prepared a headlamp so as my other companions. Maxi and Jackie lighted the lamp and led the way. Abs and I were positioned at the last and that’s when they started calling us Swipers instead of Sweepers. Along the tunnel, there was a huge rock which served as an obstacle in trying to proceed to the other end. One must climb over this huge thing or choose to swim on the other side. I find it difficult for the three teen-age girls (Nicole, Shane and Aljunette) since the rock is too steep and slippery. What’s more difficult is that Big Mama can’t carry herself up so one of our companion who happens to be a swimmer, guided her and took the other way where the water runs up to a shoulder-high level. Thank God she knows how to float so she was able to reach the other end. After we surpassed that great obstruction, we came to realized how dangerous it had been for all of us. We’re just thankful that no one got hurt and that we were all safe.

Whooooah, This is L-I-F-E!

What a relief! Photo taken after all of us have crossed the huge rock inside the underground river.

When we reached the other end of the tunnel, we continued river trekking and this excites me more. It was raining that time so all of us were cold and freezing. We headed to Bokong Falls or commonly known as the Small Falls. Some of my friends took the chance to dive and enjoy its cool water while I preferred puffin’ a cig and contented watching them swim like ducks. (I must admit, and this is our secret – I don’t know how to swim!)

The Bokong Falls - looks like a painting with a little extra on the side.

As we head home, we passed through a plantation of green bell peppers and we’re all amazed how it grew so big. If those were green apples, I would have picked one and munch it along the trail. 

We finally reached the main road leading though Masferre Photos and stopped over Sagada Weaving which is known for its famous woven cloth made into backpacks, bags, pouches and other stuffs. By the way, I bought my Sagada map there for 30Php. As we were approaching near our guesthouse, we passed through St. Theodore’s Hospital. Jackie told us that there are only two people confined there at the moment. Ayos no?! People in Sagada live longer and doesn’t get sick often because they’re surrounded with fresh air and lots of vegetables to eat, less pollution and processed food, no tricycles whatsoever so people here walk a lot – enough to stretch those muscles and live active. He even added that during peak season where tourists from all over the country flock to Sagada and all the Inns and Guesthouses were fully booked, this hospital opens its doors and so guests can stay here. Whew, I can imagine myself sleeping in one of those hospital beds while on vacation. Sounds interesting, huh?

We arrived at Alfredo’s very exhausted. Our first day in Sagada was indeed a tiring experience yet quite worth it. I was then fuelled with enthusiasm with what will happen the next day. After dinner, we tried their rice wine or tapuy which we bought at 150php per bottle. The taste is kind of sour, bitter and sweet, really an unfamiliar taste. The smell is similar to vinegar but it somehow tastes good for me. (I guess I have taken a lot of shots already so it doesn’t concern me much whether it tastes good or not) It was really cold that night. Perfect for chillaxin’ under the reggae moon. We talked about our experiences at the Echo Valley and the Underground River. We finished the two bottles of tapuy but we were not yet sleepy so we (Maxi, Abs, Tito Fern, Athan, Jack and I) decided to continue our chillaxin’mode at a nearby bar. Curfews are observed here at 9:00 PM even long before but the guide told us that it’s okay to be out at the streets until 12midnight provided that we shouldn’t bother those who were already asleep and refrain from loud noises. We passed through Sagada Pine Café where foreigners occupied most of the tables so we switched to Kimchi Bar. We were lucky to have a vacant table at the center and ordered a few bottles of cold lights. 

That's me at the middle - the only rose among the thorns, beerguzzling with  the barakos..

The conversation was kinda interesting and we all exploded into laughters – soft and stealthy laughs in the fear of sleeping through the municipal jail if we get caught distracting the rest of people in the community. Hehe We were all tipsy and ended the night with a big Zzzzzzzz. Rose wasn’t able to get a good sleep because she found my snoring so disturbing. (Sssssh, another secret – I really snore that much when I’m tired. It has always been my problem since I was a kid and until now, I’m still trying to find a solution to it. Help me please?!)

Early morning walk going through the Soccer Field.

I woke up the following day with a heavy head. It must have been the hang-over or was it the over-hang? Oh well, whatever! I decided to go for a jog but my running shoes weren’t dry yet from yesterday’s river trekking so I opted for a walk down the road and invigorated myself with some fresh air and some cool scents of Sagada pine trees. I brought with me my camera and started clicking all sorts of things that captured me instantaneously. 
There were dogs all over the place and I was thankful they were all harmless, except for the fact that they bark and howl so loud that really frightened me to death. By the time I reached the guesthouse, Emi was now awake so she decided to join me and had a few walks along St. Mary’s Church up to the soccer field. We then head back to the guesthouse to prepare breakfast. It was my turn to do the cooking and showed them some skills I have mastered while watching Iron Chef. Cheesy Egg Omellette + Dried Fish + Pork Adobo(from last night’s dish) + Hot Coffee + Rice = One Happy Meal. 

What’s next on the list? Ahah! The trek to Bomod-Ok Falls or the Big Falls. Everyone got excited though some of them hesitated to join especially the kids for they were suffering from muscle aches but eventually they prepared their things and decided to come with us except for Big Mama. She was still in a state of shock from yesterday’s trek. Abs and I were fully geared up as we head to our hired jeep which will take us to Banga-an – the jump-off point to Bomod-ok Falls. Maxi’s cousin, Leswid was able to join us that day. The hired jeep charged us Php600 for the roundtrip fare. The trek going to the Big Falls was easy because the trails were cemented pathways. It took us 1 – ½ hours trekking under the hot raging sun while we enjoyed taking pictures of Sagada rice terraces and its scenic views. I almost thought I was Judy Ann Santos in her movie “Don’t give up on us” with Piolo. Hehe 

Rollin' Rollin Rollin' - Chew, Spit and Eeeeew! 

Thirsty and tired, we had to take a five-minute break at a certain area which they call Dap-ay – this is where the  people in the village gather for meetings, rituals and other activities. We met a couple of elders there chewing momma – a combination of apog or lime, buyo, bark of a particular tree (I don’t have any idea of what tree it was) rolled into a leaf. These are called nga-nga by the locals whom they chew hard enough to get the juice and then they have to spit it out. Out of my curiosity, I tried chewing one and boy, it was disgusting. It tasted like a soil seasoned with a bit of salt and pepper. I can’t describe the aftertaste. Mads Diday and Jo also tried and after the chewing and spitting, they’ve gone obviously mad. We all laughed crazily.  

Refreshed and Renewed!

A few minutes away from the falls, we stopped by at a hanging bridge and took a shot of a really implausible view although our legs were shaking heavily. Click! Finally, we were really amazed when we saw the falls situated at the edge of the valley. It was really one of the largest falls here in the Philippines. The water drops approximately 20 feet high and it’s so cold that you’d be having strange doubts whether to plunge in or just stare at it. I was captivated by its magic. The view was divine. And even though I can’t swim, I still managed to stay in the water for a couple of minutes and did a lot of photo shoot. Haha Leaving Bomod-ok Falls gave me a heavy heart for I have enjoyed every moment spent there. 

Tired from endless trekking. I need WATER please!!

We (Maxi, Jackie, Abs, Jo, Athan and I) took the route going back to the main road by traversing through rice terraces (this is what I really wanted and the rest seconded – we’re all up for an extra challenge!) while the rest headed back using the easy route. It’s a complicated trail because it requires a lot of balancing act. One wrong step and then you’ll end up rolling and falling down the valley just like Humpty Dumpty. Lucky if you’re still alive. I ran out of water supply and King Sun continued to radiate more that it made me really thirsty.  Jackie walked so fast being the lead man followed by Maxi that they never seemed to notice how tired my legs were. I was perspiring like hell and Maxi gave me some of his water. The trails were endless but the view is fabulous. Before we reached the main road where the jeepney driver waited for us, we stopped over at a certain store and refreshed ourselves with ice cold coke. For me, that was best coke I have ever tasted in my whole life. Haha While waiting for the rest of the pack, we fooled around with the kids there selling ice candy. Breathtaking experience of a lifetime!

          The rain started to fall in the afternoon as we head off to our next destination and the main event of the course – Spelunking at Sumaguing Cave. We were all freezing in the cold but afterwards, the rain took mercy on us and decided to stop. With headlamps on, we went down the step that led us to the entrance of the cave. The caverns are seemingly inviting as they appear to be in large number – each with corresponding rock formations – uncanny and impressive.
  

Sumaguing Spelunking - Superb!!!

There we saw the “King’s Curtain”, the “Porn Cave” shaped us vagina, the “Rice Granary”, the “Dancing Hall” and a lot more. There were several fascinating chambers and the steps were too slippery. A part of Sumaguing Cave was the “Tunnel” wherein one must have to crawl to pass though its trail to reach on the other end. Abs and I wanted to go and try it but we were running out of time. It’s past 6PM already and some of our companions started to worry since it’s getting dark outside (we still have to catch an open store to buy pasalubong) so we left the cave with happy smiles on our faces. Each one trying to brag about their personal experiences – a story to be told when we reach home. As for me, it was indeed an experience of a lifetime. Truly, I was really glad that I was able experience the joy of being there, the laughter shared with my friends in all activities from sun-up to sun-down, the insights learned from ancient culture, the enjoyment of interacting among the locals, the pure bliss I felt to be one with nature, the gratefulness I felt for God’s infinite blessing to mankind and for giving me a reason to exist in this world and be a living witness to enjoy life’s simple pleasures. And when I grow old, I’ll always look back to the days spent in Sagada. Peter Pan once said that to be able to fly, you should think of a happy thought. So don’t wonder why I’m flying, Sagada thoughts made me do so. 

"Beyond those troubled hills of the north
Lies my hope all laden with pine
Amidst the soft and silken touch
Of morning mist I lay my pr'yer b'fore thy shrine

My pr'yers to Thee my love dressed in green,
My paradise unforeseen
My thanks to Thee who spawned my love
Sagada, Sagada will always be mine"
----Sagada Folk Song